Garden Guides

Fall Garden Cleanup Checklist: What to Cut, What to Leave for Pollinators

Cut back peonies, hostas, bearded iris and diseased plants in fall, but leave healthy stems, seed heads and grasses for bees and birds. Rake leaves into beds as mulch and dig out dandelions with the whole taproot.

4-prong root weeder for pulling dandelions and weeds by the root
In this guide
  1. What to cut back in the fall
  2. What to leave standing for bees and birds
  3. Should you leave the leaves in your garden?
  4. Why fall is the time to pull perennial weeds
  5. What to do before the ground freezes
  6. How to clean and store garden tools for winter
  7. Fall garden cleanup checklist: the quick version
  8. Frequently asked questions

A fall garden cleanup checklist comes down to four jobs: cut peonies, hostas, bearded iris and diseased plants back to a few inches above the soil, leave healthy stems and seed heads for bees and birds, rake leaves into beds as mulch, and dig out perennial weeds like dandelions. Get the whole dandelion taproot, because University of Minnesota Extension notes that a piece left in the soil can regrow. If you want tidier beds, Illinois Extension suggests cutting healthy stems to 6 to 18 inches tall instead of to the ground.

The old-school cleanup meant cutting every plant down, raking every leaf and leaving beds bare. A balanced cleanup is less work, and the garden is often healthier for it. Here's what to cut, what to leave, what to weed now and what to do before the ground freezes.

What to cut back in the fall

Peonies, hostas, bearded iris and any plant with diseased foliage are the perennials to cut back in fall, because their old leaves can carry disease or pests through winter.

  • Peonies: cut stems to a few inches above the soil once the foliage fades. This helps limit fungal problems like leaf blotch and powdery mildew next year.
  • Hostas: after frost turns the leaves mushy, cut them back to a few inches above the crown. Collapsed hosta leaves can shelter slug eggs.
  • Bearded iris: once the foliage browns after frost, trim it back and clear the debris from around the rhizomes. This removes places where iris borers lay eggs.
  • Any plant with obvious disease: mildewed, spotted or blighted foliage should come out. Bag it for the trash. Most home compost piles don't get hot enough to kill pathogens, insect larvae or weed seeds, according to Iowa State University Extension.
  • Frost-killed annuals and vegetable plants: pull them, compost the healthy material, and trash anything that was diseased, such as blighted tomato vines.

Height guidance varies between sources, so treat "a few inches" as the goal rather than a precise measurement. Clean, sharp pruners make the job faster and leave cleaner cuts. You'll find them in our garden tools and pruning collection.

What to leave standing for bees and birds

Healthy perennial stems, seed heads and ornamental grasses can stand until spring, where they shelter native bees and feed birds through winter.

Fall perennial border with coneflower and black-eyed Susan seed heads left standing above a layer of fallen leaves
  • Hollow and pithy stems are where many native bees spend the winter. Many native bees are solitary and lay their eggs in dry, pithy stems from last year's plants, such as joe-pye weed and elderberry, according to Illinois Extension. The Xerces Society, a pollinator conservation group, also notes that many native bees live inside hollow plant stems (as reported by Spectrum News).
  • Seed heads on coneflowers, black-eyed Susans and similar plants feed birds through winter and add structure to a snowy garden. If you'd rather they didn't reseed everywhere, cut some back now.
  • Ornamental grasses give winter interest and shelter. Cut them back in late winter or early spring, before new growth starts.

If you want a tidier look now, Illinois Extension suggests cutting stems back to 6 to 18 inches tall and leaving them until the end of the following year, since bees nest in them next summer. In spring, don't rush to clear everything on the first warm day. Some conservation groups suggest waiting until temperatures stay reliably warm, then cutting old stems back while leaving roughly 8 to 24 inches of stubble that cavity-nesting bees can use (ClearWater Conservancy).

Should you leave the leaves in your garden?

Fallen leaves make free winter mulch when you rake them into planting beds or around the base of trees and shrubs. There they protect the soil and give overwintering insects cover. Whole leaves offer the best habitat, according to the Xerces Society's guidance. Iowa State University Extension warns not to pile leaves so deep that they smother the crowns of perennials. Keep thick, wet mats off your lawn, since they can smother grass. A thin, dry layer can be chopped with a mulching mower so the pieces fall between the grass blades. If you have more leaves than you can use, pile extras in a corner to break down into leaf mold for next year.

Why fall is the time to pull perennial weeds

Fall is prime time to pull perennial weeds like dandelions, because they move energy down into their roots to prepare for winter. This is the one cleanup job worth doing thoroughly. Get the whole root out now and that plant won't regrow from it in spring. The catch is the taproot: University of Minnesota Extension points out that removing the entire taproot is essential when hand pulling, because a leftover piece can regrow.

How to remove dandelions by the root

Gloved hand holding a whole dandelion with its long, unbroken taproot just lifted from moist soil
  • Weed after rain. Moist soil lets roots slide out instead of snapping.
  • Go in beside the root, not on top of the leaves. Push the tool into the soil right next to the crown, angled down along the taproot.
  • Lever, don't yank. Rock the tool back and let the leverage lift the root out. Pulling by the leaves usually snaps the root.
  • Check what you got. If the root broke, loosen the soil and go after the rest.
  • Bag weeds that have gone to seed rather than composting them.

Our 4-Prong Root Weeder is built for exactly this. Its four pointed prongs grip the root ball instead of cutting the weed off at the surface, and the curved rocker head gives you leverage. The manganese steel head is made for repeated prying in compact soil. At about 14 inches long, it's a hand tool for beds, borders, lawns and tight corners, and you can choose a wooden, steel or rubber-grip handle. For other weeding tools and pest solutions, see our pest and weed control collection.

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What to do before the ground freezes

Before the ground freezes, plant spring bulbs, water new plantings, mulch tender perennials and lift tender bulbs in cold zones.

  • Plant spring bulbs. Tulips, daffodils and crocus go in now in many zones. Our guide to planting bulbs with a drill auger covers timing by zone and planting depth.
  • Water new plantings. Trees, shrubs and perennials planted this year benefit from a deep watering before the ground freezes, especially in a dry fall.
  • Mulch after the ground cools. A few inches of shredded leaves or mulch over tender perennials helps even out soil temperatures through freeze-thaw cycles.
  • Lift tender bulbs in cold zones. Dahlias, cannas and gladiolus generally won't survive frozen ground. Dig them, let them dry, and store them somewhere cool and frost-free.

How to clean and store garden tools for winter

Garden tools last longer when you clean, sharpen, oil and store them dry before winter. Knock off soil, wash and dry blades, sharpen pruners, and wipe metal with a light coat of oil to prevent rust. Drain and coil hoses and store them out of freezing weather. Hang tools somewhere dry so they're easy to find when the season starts again.

Fall garden cleanup checklist: the quick version

A complete fall garden cleanup checklist has seven jobs, from cutting back diseased foliage to oiling your pruners:

  • Cut back peonies, hostas, iris and any diseased foliage, and bag the diseased material
  • Leave healthy stems, seed heads and ornamental grasses until spring
  • Rake leaves into beds and keep thick mats off the lawn
  • Pull dandelions and other perennial weeds, getting the whole root
  • Plant spring bulbs and water new plantings
  • Mulch once the ground cools and lift tender bulbs in cold zones
  • Clean, sharpen, oil and store your tools

Frequently asked questions

What should I cut back in the fall?

Cut back peonies, hostas and bearded iris in fall, along with any perennial that had disease or pest problems this year. Their old leaves can shelter fungal disease, slug eggs or iris borer eggs over winter, so trim these plants to a few inches above the soil.

Should I cut back perennials in fall or spring?

Both, depending on the plant. Cut back disease- or pest-prone perennials like peonies, hostas and bearded iris in fall. Leave healthy perennials, seed heads and ornamental grasses standing for wildlife and winter interest, then cut them back in spring.

Should I leave the leaves in my garden beds?

Yes. Fallen leaves raked into garden beds and around shrubs work as free winter mulch and shelter overwintering insects. Iowa State University Extension warns not to pile the leaves so deep that they smother the crowns of perennials.

Is it okay to leave leaves on the lawn?

A light scattering of leaves on the lawn is fine, but thick, wet mats can smother grass over winter. Rake the excess into beds, or chop a thin, dry layer of leaves with a mulching mower so the pieces fall between the grass blades.

Can I compost diseased plants and weeds?

No, it's safest to bag them. Iowa State University Extension notes that most home compost piles don't get hot enough to kill pathogens, insect larvae or weed seeds. Put diseased foliage and seeding weeds in the trash, and compost only healthy plant material.

Is fall a good time to pull dandelions?

Yes. Dandelions move energy down into their roots in fall, so a dandelion pulled now with its whole taproot won't regrow in spring. Weed after rain, when moist soil lets the taproot slide out instead of snapping, because a leftover piece can regrow.

When should I cut back ornamental grasses?

Cut back ornamental grasses in late winter or early spring, before new growth starts. Ornamental grasses left standing through fall and winter give the garden winter interest and shelter wildlife, so there's no need to trim them during fall cleanup.

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