Winter is the hardest season for houseplants, and it's rarely because of one big mistake. Shorter days, drier air, cold windows and the same watering habits you had in July all add up. The good news is that winter houseplant care mostly comes down to a few small adjustments in light, water, humidity and temperature.
Here's what changes for indoor plants in winter, a simple watering routine for the cold months, and how to read the warning signs before a plant goes downhill.
What changes for houseplants in winter
Most houseplants don't go fully dormant indoors, but they do slow down. Several things happen at once:
- Less light. The sun sits lower and days are shorter, so plants make less energy and grow more slowly.
- Slower water use. A slow-growing plant drinks less, so the soil stays wet longer than it did in summer.
- Very dry air. Heating systems pull moisture out of indoor air, which shows up as crispy leaf edges.
- Bigger temperature swings. A windowsill can be warm at noon and close to freezing at night, while a spot by a vent gets blasts of hot, dry air.
Once you know that plants are running on less light and using less water, most of the rest of winter care follows naturally.
Give them as much light as you can
Light is often the biggest factor limiting houseplant growth in winter. A few changes help:
- Move plants closer to windows. A plant that was fine six feet from the glass in summer may need to sit right beside it now. Keep leaves from touching cold glass, though.
- Re-check your windows. North- and east-facing windows can become quite dim in winter. On the other hand, a window shaded by trees in summer may get much more sun once the leaves drop.
- Clean the glass and the leaves. Dust on leaves and grime on windows both block light. Wipe broad leaves gently with a damp cloth.
- Rotate pots a quarter turn every week or so to keep growth even.
- Add a grow light for the dimmest rooms. If plants are stretching and leaning, a small grow light can carry them to spring. Browse our indoor gardening and grow lights collection.
A winter watering routine
Overwatering kills more houseplants in winter than underwatering does. The surface of the soil dries quickly in heated rooms, which tempts you to water again while the root zone below is still wet. This routine keeps you honest.
1Check before you water
Feel the top inch or two of soil a few times a week, and lift the pot. A pot that has dried out can weigh about half as much as it does right after a good watering. If you'd rather read the root zone than guess, a moisture meter with long probes, like our 3-in-1 Soil Meter, shows what's happening a few inches down. Our guide on how to use a soil moisture meter explains how to read it.
2Water thoroughly, then drain
When a plant does need water, water slowly until it runs out of the drainage hole. Then empty the saucer or cachepot after 15 minutes or so. Roots sitting in standing water are the fastest route to rot.
3Use room-temperature water
Very cold water straight from the tap can shock the roots of tropical plants. Filling the watering can ahead of time lets it warm up.
4Adjust by plant type
Succulents, cacti, snake plants and ZZ plants may need water only every few weeks in winter. Ferns and calatheas like more even moisture. Pothos, philodendron and monstera fall in between. Let each plant tell you, rather than watering everything on the same day.
Raise the humidity
Indoor air in winter can drop below 20% relative humidity, while most houseplants do best around 40 to 50%, according to University of Illinois Extension. Brown, crispy leaf tips are often the first sign the air is too dry.
- Group plants together. Plants release moisture as they grow, and a cluster creates a slightly more humid pocket of air.
- Use a pebble tray. Fill a shallow tray with pebbles and water, and set the pot on top so its base sits above the water line.
- Run a humidifier in the room where your humidity lovers live. It's the most effective option.
- Try the bathroom. If it has a bright window, it's often the most humid room in the house.
- Skip the mister. Misting raises humidity for only a few minutes, so it does little unless you do it constantly.
Watch temperatures and drafts
Most common houseplants are comfortable with daytime temperatures of about 65 to 75°F and a drop of around 10 degrees at night. Problems usually come from extremes in one spot rather than the thermostat setting.
- Keep plants away from heat vents, radiators and fireplaces.
- Move them away from drafty doors and leaky windows.
- On frosty nights, pull plants on a windowsill back a few inches, or close the curtain behind them so they don't sit against freezing glass.
Sudden temperature changes often cause leaf drop. If a plant dropped leaves after a move or a cold snap, give it a steady spot and time to recover.
Hold off on fertilizer and repotting
Plants growing slowly in low light can't use much fertilizer, and unused fertilizer can build up as salts in the soil. University of Vermont Extension recommends stopping fertilizer from October until March and starting again when you see new growth.
Repotting is usually best saved for spring too, when plants are actively growing and recover faster. The exception is an emergency, such as a pot that has cracked or soil that stays soggy and smells sour. When it's time for fresh mix and new pots, our soil care and plant health collection is a good place to start.
Common winter problems and what they mean
- Yellow lower leaves and wet soil: usually overwatering. Let the pot dry further before the next watering and make sure it drains.
- Brown, crispy tips: dry air, or soil that dried out completely. Raise humidity and check moisture more often.
- Long, pale, leaning stems: not enough light. Move the plant closer to a window or add a grow light. Trim leggy vines and root the cuttings in water for a fuller plant later.
- Sudden leaf drop: often a temperature shock or a recent move. Keep conditions steady.
- Fine webbing and speckled leaves: spider mites, which thrive in warm, dry air. Rinse the plant in the shower, isolate it, and treat with insecticidal soap if they return.
- Tiny flies around the soil: fungus gnats, a sign the mix is staying too wet. Let the top layer dry out between waterings.
Frequently asked questions
How often should I water houseplants in winter?
There's no fixed schedule, and most plants need water less often than in summer. Check the soil a few times a week and water only when the top inch or two is dry, or when the pot feels noticeably lighter. Succulents may go several weeks between waterings.
Should I mist my houseplants in winter?
Misting isn't very effective. The extra humidity lasts only minutes. Grouping plants, using pebble trays or running a humidifier does far more to protect leaves from dry winter air.
Why are my houseplant leaves turning brown at the tips in winter?
Brown tips in winter usually point to dry indoor air or soil that has dried out completely between waterings. Raise the humidity around the plant, keep it away from heat vents, and check the soil more often so it doesn't go bone dry.
